On the far side of the state, New York’s second largest city is a mere one hour flight from NYC. Thanks to its proximity, plus its mix of architecture, food, public parks, landmark waterfalls, shopping — and yes, its chicken wings — Buffalo is a totally weekend-worthy jaunt.
It’s not difficult to picture a booming Buffalo 100 years ago, when its location on the Erie Canal made it an industrial epicenter. With power from nearby Niagara Falls — the most powerful waterfalls in the country — the city boomed in the early 1900s. But as deindustrialization reshaped the country, Buffalo’s busy factories shuddered, and its population declined. Since then, Buffalo has slowly shed its rusty roots, finding ways to repurpose once-neglected factories and landmarks into actual tourist attractions.
Thanks to the efforts of its bootstrapping locals, preservationists, and entrepreneurs, Buffalo finds itself on a bona fide upswing. Its formerly industrial waterfront is now a haven for outdoor lovers, with its boating, zip lining and rock climbing. Leaps have been made in the preservation of the city’s gems, including a $50 million restoration of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Martin House, and along Buffalo’s “Millionaire’s Row,” one of the largest collections of Gilded Age mansions in the country. The city also has one of the largest bodies of work by Frederick Law Olmsted, the mastermind behind New York’s Central and Prospect Park; Olmsted designed six parks here, connecting them with America’s first system of tree-lined parkways, in 1868.
Any trip to Buffalo should begin above it, via Buffalo’s majestic Art Deco City Hall. Thirty two stories above its busy streets, city hall has a free public observatory that offers 360 views of Lake Erie and Canada, along with Buffalo’s old factories and grain silos, plus a scattershot of the surrounding 20th-century architecture. Once you’ve gotten a lay of the land, continue a deeper dive into New York’s Queen City, using our guide below. Also, check out Visit Buffalo Niagara, the local tourism agency for even more recommendations!
Where to Stay: A National Historic Landmark Turned Chic Hotel
Interior at the Hotel Henry © 2018 Kim Smith Photo
The 88-room Hotel Henry has an intriguing past, to say the least. Built in 1872, the National Historic Landmark’s opened as a mental institution in 1880. It’s castle-like structure is slightly foreboding, but inside, the hotel is completely modern and welcoming with its soaring ceilings, a farm-to-table restaurant, hotel bar, and lots of cozy reading nooks. In the center of the building, guests will find the lobby, restaurant, and other shared amenities — then wander through its airy corridors that toward the rooms, located in the wings. In-between, Hotel Henry’s sunlit hallways serve as mini-art galleries, showcasing local and national talent. Rooms are generously sized, outfitted with beautiful bathrooms, and decorated in soothing palettes of warm grays.
Where to Eat & Drink: Buffalos Best Farm-to-Table Gems, Cocktail Bars, Dives, and Wings
Our must-visit pick for a meal: The Breadhive Bakery & Cafe
For breakfast, start your day at Five Points Bakery whose specialty, delightfully — is toast. The combinations of savory and sweet toasts, plus toppings and sides are more than filling; our favorite was the savory extra sharp cheddar toast, but there’s lots of options. For a memorable brunch, check out the Swan Street Diner, a restored diner with elevated breakfast and lunch fare. Our favorite spot was the Breadhive Cooperative, whose menu puns are only topped by the sandwiches themselves. If you choose only one, go here!
For dinners, there’s a handful of new-school restaurants making high marks, including southern-themed Toutant; seafood spot Dobutsu and farm-to-table options Dapper Goose, Marble and Rye, and James Beard award-nominated The Black Sheep. All are very good. Old-school Italian joint Ristorante Lombardo has quite the reputation among locals, too. That said, everyone knows that Buffalo = wings, so you pretty much have to do it. Even vegetarians have options! While everyone has an opinion on whose is best, most agree that you can’t go wrong at the birthplace of Buffalo wings at Anchor Bar. Others that were frequently recommended to us include Gabriel’s Gate and Gene McCarthy’s; for other classic Buffalonian food, check out Schwabl’s for beef on weck, and Ted’s Hot Dogs.
For drinks only, re-caffeinate at Tipico, Remedy House, Undergrounds and Public Espresso. There’s a handful of breweries in town too: Resurgence, Old First Ward, Community Beer Works, and Big Ditch, voted the best craft brewery at TAP NY in 2016. For a nice cocktail, we loved the atmosphere of Angelica Tea Room, perfectly complimented by its inventive cocktails and fancy bar bites. Other cocktail/restaurant combinations include Ballyho, Buffalo Proper, and whiskey bar Lucky Day. Looking for a cool dive? According to locals, the best spots are Old Pink and the highly Instagramable Founding Fathers.
What to Do in Buffalo: Explore the City’s Neighborhoods, Visit Niagara Falls
Frank Lloyd Wright’s Martin House
Buffalo is by far the best portal city to visit Niagara Falls, the most powerful waterfalls in the USA. Carve out a chunk of an afternoon to take the 20 minute drive to the park, then take on the majesty of the falls via its observation deck, a hike, or the Maid of the Mist boat tour. (Pro tip: the town of Niagara Falls is super touristy, so best to park, do your thing, and head back to Buffalo for everything else.)
To enjoy some small-town vibes, set aside some time to duck in and out of the cafes, pubs, and shops of Hertel Avenue, Elmwood Village, and Allentown. Hertel Avenue is great for shopping; don’t miss Mimo Decor’s amazing and very affordable (!) collection of mid-century modern furniture; motorcycle lifestyle shop Spoke & Dagger; and pop into Revolver Records to expand your vinyl collection. In Elmwood Village, the Albright-Knox Art Gallery has an impressive modern art collection and across the street, Burchfield Penney Art Center showcases local artists. Shopping highlights here include Ro for cool home decor, Black Dots for vinyl, My Cuzin Vintage for rad vintage streetwear and sneakers, Bureau for menswear, and floral/gift shop Fern Croft. Last, Allentown’s painted murals, live music bars, neighborhood galleries, and quirky characters — i.e. the “bubble man,” who blows bubbles out of his apartment window pretty much all the time — feels like the Brooklyn of Buffalo. And speaking of the city, downtown is home to our favorite shop in all of Buffalo, Oxford Pennant. Their customizable pennant/design service has had us hooked for years, and they’ve just opened up a storefront, whose expanded collection includes pennants, patches, banners, apparel, and more.
Last but not least, what better way to get a feel for the revitalization of Buffalo than visiting one of its defunct factories? Fortunately you don’t have to trespass into an abandoned building or anything — instead, check out what’s happening at RiverWorks, a massive sporting & concerts venue, where several abandoned grain silos have been converted to a brewery, zip-line course, and rock climbing walls. Buffalo’s grain elevators have long been emblematic of the area, and at one time, thought to be eyesores. But these days, they stand for a new era of innovation — which is just so fitting for this city on the rise.
