The Esopus Creek winds through the heart of town, framed by lush Catskill forest and distant mountain peaks — a serene backdrop for swimming, tubing, or simply soaking in the scenery. Photo: Escape Brooklyn

Once a sleepy railroad town, Phoenicia has evolved into one of the Catskills’ most beloved destinations for a laid-back Upstate escape. Wedged between mountain ridges and surrounded by thick forest, this hamlet along the Esopus Creek is a hub for hiking, river fun and fresh air — with just enough dining and design-forward hospitality to draw city folks without tipping into overdone.

It’s a popular spot in the warmer months, thanks to a walkable Main Street and bus service to NYC; with just the right amount of scrappy, mountain charm to keep people coming back.

Ruins from an 1800’s hotel are near the summit of Overlook Mountain, which rises 3,140 feet over Woodstock, New York Photo: Escape Brooklyn

Phoenicia’s greatest asset is the landscape that surrounds it. Nestled in the heart of the Catskill Forest Preserve, it offers easy access to some of the region’s best trails. Tanbark Trail begins right in town, just behind the post office, and though it’s short, it’s a steep climb with big payoffs — offering sweeping views over Phoenicia and the surrounding mountains. For those willing to drive a bit further, Giant Ledge is a favorite local hike with dramatic outcroppings and panoramic vistas. It’s a moderate, just-over-three-mile round-trip that’s well worth the effort. Overlook Mountain, near Woodstock, is another standout: the trail passes the ruins of a once-grand hotel and ends at a fire tower with 360º views stretching across the Catskills and beyond.

Scenic drives are another way to enjoy the region’s natural beauty. Route 28 cuts through some of the Catskills’ most picturesque terrain, linking towns like Mt. Tremper, Big Indian, and Shandaken. A short drive east will land you in Woodstock, with its mix of galleries, vintage shops, and cafés. Head west, and you’ll find yourself deep in the mountains, with trailheads, roadside markets, and watering holes at every turn.

In the colder months, winter brings its own appeal. Belleayre Mountain and Hunter Mountains are both about a half hour from town, offering skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing for all levels — plus a scenic gondola ride for those who prefer their views without the downhill rush.

Breakfast is served after dark at The Phoenicia Diner, whose menu also includes other comfort food like soups, sandwiches, salads and full-on platters. Photo: Kait Ebinger

Phoenicia may be small, but the food scene here punches above its weight — a mix of old favorites, stylish newcomers, and cozy hangouts with strong local followings.

The iconic Phoenicia Diner is going strong as always, serving up reimagined diner fare in a nostalgic roadside setting. Open for breakfast and lunch, its trout toast, hashes, and stacks of fluffy pancakes are go-tos — best paired with a mug of Catskills-roasted coffee. It’s worth the wait, especially on weekends when the place is packed.

On Main Street in Phoenicia, Bettina has quickly become a local favorite. This chef-owned café serves excellent espresso, breakfast, and lunch daily — think huevos rancheros, cinnamon buns, and taco skillets — alongside a full bar and dinner service on weekends. Come for a casual brunch or a relaxed evening meal with the doors open and spring breezes drifting through.

A short drive outside town, The Pines in Mt. Tremper remains one of the area’s most reliable dinner spots. Tucked inside a rustic building surrounded by trees, it offers a rotating seasonal menu, excellent cocktails, and a cozy atmosphere that’s equally suited for date nights or low-key hangs with friends.

For a more immersive experience, head to Urban Cowboy Lodge in nearby Big Indian. Though best known as a boutique hotel, their Public House restaurant and cocktail bar is open to the public and worth the trip. Seasonal plates are served in a lodge-like dining room filled with vintage rugs, moody lighting, and Catskills views — while the outdoor deck makes for a perfect golden-hour drink stop after a day on the trails.

Back in town, Brio’s keeps things classic. This Main Street standby serves everything from burgers to pasta, but is best known for its pizza — especially the sesame-crusted pies. It’s unpretentious, quick, and one of the few spots that stays open later than most.

The Leeway’s wood-paneled exterior blends rustic charm with modern comfort, nestled on the banks of the Esopus Creek just minutes from Phoenicia’s center. Photo: Escape Brooklyn

Tucked between forested peaks and cut through by the Esopus Creek, Phoenicia has quietly become one of the Catskills’ most beloved towns for laid-back weekends in the mountains. It’s just enough off the beaten path to feel like a true escape—yet still delivers when it comes to good food, stylish stays, and scenic access. Come summer, Main Street buzzes with hikers, bikers, and breakfast crowds at the diner; in winter, it’s a home base for ski days and slow, fireside evenings.

A few standouts:

• The Graham & Co., a design-minded boutique motel with camp vibes, a pool, fire pits, and bikes for cruising into town;
• Catskills Cloud House, a bright and airy farmhouse with walkability to Main Street and year-round charm, offering easy access to hiking trails in summer and a private backyard skating rink in winter;
• The Leeway, a boutique motel set along the Esopus Creek, with cozy, cabin-style interiors and peaceful river views less than 10 minutes from Phoenicia’s Main Street.

For more options, browse the Catskills and Hudson Valley Collections in the Escape Club app to explore our favorite design-forward hotels and rentals – from renovated boutique motels to cozy mountainside cabins.